By Vivi Carrasco
I always get a blissful feeling when there’s parking in Dondero’s (somewhat cramped) lot. The building, a historic pink house, sits just off Milledge Avenue. It appears to be a house not unlike any of the other quirky homes on North Milledge, but inside it hosts a variety of goodness.
The restaurant is family-run and has been for the past nine years. Tim Dondero is the current owner and executive chef of the Athens gem. The place is homey and seems to have collected random items, much like your grandparents’ house. Paint peels off the walls, the window panes are a little warped and latticed with metal. Numerous art pieces, by children and artists alike, deck the walls. It’s a bit rundown, but it’s exactly as it should be. And there’s my usual table, by the bookshelf and against the window!
In the morning, light pours into the space, collecting in pools on the wood tables and floors. A gentle bell signals the incoming of visitors. On the best days, that bell will be infrequent, and a close friend and a couple older strangers will be your only company.
A second room, where you place your order at the counter, is brimming with international food items. Noodles, soups, sandwiches. Kombucha, cold brew, sparkling water. Behind the counter glass, baked goodies are assembled. The pumpkin bread always sparks my attention, but I have a weakness for strawberry jam bars.
When you place an order, the artsy waitress hands you a table marker, always the flag of a country. Today we are Cambodia. I order breakfast. Some days, I go the pastry route, other days it’s a meal. Whatever the choice, there is always coffee.
People often wrinkle their noses at the sound of “almond milk latte.” I was one of those people. But Donderos’ take on the drink might make you second guess that judgement. The coffee is delicate and easily sweetened, the milk perfectly frothy and not doing the gross separation thing that almond milk loves to do.
For today’s meal, I ordered something outside the usual: a skillet. Served in an oval dish, the skillet came with steaming potatoes, eggs and a generous serving of hearty veggies, all smothered in mozzarella. This breakfast would make mama proud. And if you’re looking for a kick, the hot sauce is just a stride away.
So yes, come to Dondero’s. But shh, don’t tell too many people about it.
Photo courtesy of Yelp.
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